Sunday 11/20/11 Sunday morning was tranquil on Deep Creek. We arrived at Deep Creek Lock at 8:20A being first in line to enter the lock. The lock schedule is 8:30A, 11:00A, 1:30P and 3:30P. We were accompanied by two sailboats and a large trawler. The Lockmaster was quite helpful and put us at ease. The lock lifts about 8 feet. When you come to a stop in the lock you pass the lockmaster a line attached to a cleat on your boat, which he puts around a bollard (post) then throws you back the end of the line. This is done on each end of the boat. Linda held the bow line and I did the stern. When all the boats are secure the downstream lock gate closes and the water comes in through the valves below the upstream gate. This seems a bit intimidating at first as this rush of water is swirling all around you. But it is doing just that …swirling; there is no real current to fight. When the lift is over the lockmaster opens the upstream gate and tells you to pull in your lines. Then you proceed slowly out the lock. The whole process takes nearly an hour. Now we are officially in the Dismal Swamp Canal. 
Just inside each end of the canal is a draw bridge. The Lockmaster is also the Bridge Tender, so after all the boats have cleared the lock he makes a ½ mile trip to open the bridge.
The Dismal Swamp starts at mile 11 on the ICW and continues for 22 miles to South Mills Lock. There you are lowered 8 feet into Turners Cut. This cut, which is a little wider than the canal, goes another 5 miles then joins the head waters of the Pasquotank River.
The canal was true to everything we have heard or read. It is truly a beautiful waterway. It is only about 50 feet wide with overhanging trees on each side giving about a 30 foot clear channel. The sides of the canal have countless snags (dead trees and branches) and some floating wood. Water depths in the center run around 6 to 9 feet. Almost totally tree lined on both sides you would never know that US route 17 parallels the eastern bank for much of the canal except the occasional sound of a truck on the highway. 
Trying to steer a boat that constantly makes a left turn was quite the challenge. After a few minutes I was able to get the helm centered and we continued another 10 miles with the port engine running 1500 RPM and adjusting the starboard engine to keep us going straight. It took 3 hours to arrive at ICW mile 28 where North Carolina has a unique Welcome Center where on one side is the canal and the other is US route 17.
Around 3:30P we tied up at the Welcome Center and made arrangements with Tow Boat U.S. to come and tow us to Elizabeth City, NC the next morning. The closest Tow Boat U.S. is in Coinjock, NC, 25 miles away as the crow flies but 60 miles by water. The tow to Elizabeth City will be close to 25 miles. Tow Boat U.S. is the AAA of the boating world. I’m sure glad we have the unlimited towing option!
Deep Creek Lock: N36°44.781 W076°20.392
Dismal Swamp CanalWelcome Center: N36°30.439 W076°21.330
Monday 11/21/11 Tow Boat U.S. arrived just after 10:00A with Captain Wayne Twiford at the helm. He put TwoGether “on the hip” to start the journey to Elizabeth City. After we locked through South Mills, and were on the straight section of Turners Cut, he had us tie on towlines on the bow and gave us a conventional tow the rest of the way. While this type of trip wasn’t what I had in mind I have to admit that it was quite relaxing to be able to just sIt on the “front porch” and watch the scenery go by. It gave me a chance to take some videos. 
We tied up at Elizabeth City Shipyard at 3:30P and Captain Wayne started his hour and a half trip home. Wayne Twiford has worked onboard tankers, tugs, captained a ferry and now in retirement serves as a tow boat captain. He said he loves it. Once again we have been privileged to be served by a real professional.Tuesday 11/22/11 8:00A we were greeted by Lloyd Griffin, owner of the Elizabeth City Shipyard. He took time out of his busy schedule to troubleshoot and repair our steering problem. He found a broken gear in the helm assembly, was able to find a replacement unit and had it installed by afternoon. Lloyd is also a Certified Marine Surveyor and owner of Frigate Marine Surveyors. He inspects boats, tugs and barges for prospective buyers and writes reports of their seaworthiness. Having a survey before buying can save you from a “boatload” of problems.
With a cold front in the forecast and the Norfolk TV saying there could be winds of up to 60 MPH we decided to stay here at the Shipyard until Friday when the winds on the Albemarle Sound are forecast 10-15 with waves 1foot. The Albemarle is about 18 miles across from north to south and 50 miles east to west. The ICW cuts through the center leaving the Pasquotank River and entering the Alligator River. (I’m not quite sure if the name comes from gators living in the area or if it because it is shaped like an alligator.) When the wind is directly out of the west or east this shallow body of water can become very rough with steep choppy waves. There are warnings in every cruising guide to be sure you have low wind conditions when crossing. Even the locals will caution you “if you don’t know the Albemarle… wait it out”.
Elizabeth City Shipyard: N36°17.777 W076°12.866
Wednesday 11/23/11. We woke up to a good rain this morning and a few flashes of lightning as the cold front passed. The winds weren’t anything like forecast but it was a pretty stiff breeze and the decks got a good wash down. Today will be a day to relax and enjoy being snug in a slip.
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